Tree service Sunshine Coast

Prices run from a few hundred dollars for a small backyard tree up to several thousand for a large hoop pine or fig near a house or powerlines. The drivers are tree size, access, risk, stump grinding and cleanup. Ring us or send a couple of photos through the form for a same-day indicative quote.

Yes. Our climbers are qualified arborists with current chainsaw and aerial-rescue tickets. We carry public liability cover and can email you a current Certificate of Currency before the job starts.

We aim to send a same-day quote on most enquiries and book non-emergency work in within the week. Storm callouts and dangerous-tree work run 24/7 across the coast and hinterland.

Yes. Trees near a roof, fence, pool or powerline get sectional dismantling and controlled rigging so the tree comes down a limb at a time. We walk the drop zone and lock in the rigging plan before any saw runs.

Yes. Ex-tropical-cyclones tear through the coast every wet season and we run 24/7 make-safe work for fallen trees, snapped limbs and unstable canopies. Ring during the event for triage and we'll get a crew on the road as soon as the wind drops.

Stump grinding is a separate line item. Tick it on if you want the stump gone, leave it off if you'd rather grind it later or live with it. When we do grind, it goes below grade so you can returf, repave or replant straight away.

A small backyard tree is a half-day job. A medium tree with rigging is a full day. Large hoop pines, hinterland-block jobs or multi-tree sites can run across two or more days. The written quote spells out the expected duration for your job.

Yes. Green waste is chipped on site, the drop zone gets raked and paths blown clean. Mulch can stay on the garden, get spread out, or get hauled away. Hardwood rounds can be cut for firewood and left stacked on request.

We check every tree before any cutting starts. If a hollow or active nest is in use, we pause, reschedule or work carefully around it. Koala-habitat overlay rules also kick in for some species on the coast.

Yes. Late dry-season is the right window for cyclone pruning. We crown thin, lift the skirt and pull deadwood out to drop wind load before storm season hits. Done properly, it gives a tree a real chance of riding out an ex-cyclone in one piece.

Yes. Steep blocks off the Blackall Range and around Buderim are normal for us. The rigging plan changes (different anchor points, sometimes a long controlled lower onto a flatter pad below) and access can mean carrying gear up by hand instead of running the chipper to the tree.

Yes. We can quote the job and walk both sides through what's involved. We won't start until both owners are aligned in writing on the scope and who is paying which share.

Cyclone or storm damage to your house, fence or car is usually covered, including the make-safe work and debris removal tied to the claim. Removing a healthy tree because you want it gone, or preventative pruning, is usually not covered. Ring your insurer before you authorise work, and ask us for a written job report and Certificate of Currency to attach to the claim.

Ask for a current public liability Certificate of Currency, an on-site quote rather than phone-only, and a written itemised quote that breaks out access, climbing, rigging, chipping, stump and cleanup. Avoid anyone asking for cash up front. Look for a marked truck, modern chipper and a named climber with current tickets. Door-knockers in unmarked utes after a cyclone are almost always uninsured.

A real quote has separate lines for site setup, the climber or EWP, rigging and controlled lowering, on-site chipping of green waste, optional stump grinding below grade, haul-away of chips or logs, and GST. A single round number with no breakdown is usually how the price gets to move on the day.

If the tree was on your property, you arrange the removal. Your home and contents insurer usually pays for removing it when it has damaged an insured structure, ring them first and send photos before anything is moved. If a neighbour's tree fell onto your place, you still arrange removal but you can claim it back through your insurer if there's damage, or through the neighbour's insurer if negligence is proven.

Permits are usually required for protected trees under the local planning scheme, native trees from four metres tall and 40cm trunk circumference, anything inside a vegetation management or koala-habitat overlay, and trees listed as significant or sitting in a heritage zone. Dead, dying or imminently dangerous trees, fruit trees and small trees under the protected thresholds are usually exempt. Confirm with the council before the job, fines for unpermitted removal start around $2,000.

Most of the cost is risk and rigging, not the cutting itself. A flat block where the tree drops straight to lawn is quick and cheap. A big hoop pine behind a hinterland house with pool, powerlines and a tight side gate needs every limb roped and lowered piece by piece, that's hours of climbing time and specialised gear. The chainsaw work is the small part.

Once the stump is ground, backfill the void with screened topsoil rather than raw chips, chips slump as they break down and tie up nitrogen. For lawn, roll buffalo or couch over fresh topsoil and water in daily for ten days. For a garden bed, let the patch sit a season before planting anything you care about, so the residual wood can break down. In subtropical heat a thicker mulch layer also keeps the new root zone cool through summer.